Mike Nolan

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  • in reply to: Ready to Eat Dessert #5651
    Mike Nolan
    Keymaster

      Before I went to Chocolate Boot Camp, I'd probably have made filled mini-tarts, using either a sable breton or a chocolate pate sucree dough, like the sable breton tarts shown at the bottom of the page. The sable breton dough is a much softer dough than pate sucree, which makes it a little more tricky to release from the molds.

      My wife has a Nordicware Teacake Plaque that she makes small scones in, it should work for other small cakes. Her scones recipe is so buttery they never stick in the pan. I think shaped desserts are more attractive than drop cookies or bars that have to be cut.

      These days I'd consider making a plate of chocolates, like the almond haystacks I made for a Halloween buffet. (I sent about 60 of them, they ate all but one.) For an even fancier dessert, I'd make filled molded chocolates. One of the chocolates we made in class was filled with a lemon white chocolate ganache, it's one I'm eager to try at home. We made them in egg molds that had been colored on the outside with yellow cocoa butter, but I think any shape or color exterior would work.

      • This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month ago by Mike Nolan.
      in reply to: What’s your 2016 Thanksgiving Menu? #5646
      Mike Nolan
      Keymaster

        The problem is that heating elements aren't linear--if you increase the power to the heating element by 25% you don't necessarily get 25% more heat. The same thing can be true with the thermocouples used as temperature sensors.

        Fully digital devices (like infrared thermometers) can be calibrated to adjust to non-linear scales, my stove (made in 1996) probably cannot. Whether a stove with digital controls has that sophisticated a calibration mechanism may vary from maker to maker. I'd guess most don't spend the money on it, since the hysteresis cycle is going to have a peak-to-valley range of 20-50 degrees anyway.

        A professional convection oven has a peak-to-valley range of more like 10 degrees, but you pay for that kind of precision. I suspect home convection ovens have a peak-to-valley range of 20-25 degrees, but that's not something the manufacturers advertise.

        Besides, you can lose 40-50 degrees just opening the oven door.

        There are kitchen devices, like a circulation heater (for sous vide cooking) that can be adjusted to very precise temperatures, staying within a degree or two, I'm told. Laboratory equipment is even more precise.

        in reply to: What’s your 2016 Thanksgiving Menu? #5644
        Mike Nolan
        Keymaster

          Something else you may want to do is test your oven for hot spots.

          The way I do this is to go buy an inexpensive loaf of sliced bread, bring the oven up to temperature and then open it and quickly lay out slices of bread all across one of the racks, front to back and side to side, leaving about an inch between slices. Close the door and let the oven run until you can start to see obvious browning through the door. Then open the door and see which slices are more brown than others, that will map where your oven's hot spots are.

          If you do this at multiple rack positions (my oven has just 3 positions) you may find that the hot spots aren't in the same place at different rack positions.

          in reply to: What’s your 2016 Thanksgiving Menu? #5643
          Mike Nolan
          Keymaster

            I have a Maverick oven thermometer that is designed to measure average oven temperatures, not food temperatures. It hangs below the shelf rather than being stuck in a roast. (I wish it had a setting to switch between average and in-the-moment temperature.)

            I've also used a Polder digital meat thermometer which measures current temperature rather than average temperature.

            Anyway, what your oven measures is the temperature at the sensor, not in the middle of the oven. There are a number of factors that can contribute to non-linear readings.

            There are ovens that have more than one temperature sensor. I'm reminded of the old saying that a man who has a watch knows what time it is, but a man with two watches is never sure.

            I find when I check my oven dial for accuracy, generally using two digital oven thermometers plus an infrared gun, that it if it is pretty much dead on accurate at 350, it'll be off at both 300 and 400, and not necessarily in the same direction.

            in reply to: What’s your 2016 Thanksgiving Menu? #5641
            Mike Nolan
            Keymaster

              How is it handling hysteresis?

              Hysteresis, for those who don't remember the posts on it from the King Arthur Baking Circle, is the process by which thermostats cycle the heat on and off, so that the temperature averages out to the desired temperature.

              An oven will go past the desired temperature, perhaps by as much as 25 degrees, because heating elements don't instantly stop producing heat when turned off, then the temperature will drift down back through the desired temperature until it gets enough below that temperature to trigger another heating cycle.

              Placement of the sensor(s) is an important factor for the oven designer, as is the developments of thermal (air) currents under various types of oven loads. Any baker who has tried to bake 3 large fully loaded cookie sheets at the same time will have experienced the way the oven load diminishes air flow to certain areas (usually the middle sheet.)

              Putting a heavy item (a thermal mass) in the oven, like oven tiles or something made of iron or steel, is a way of narrowing the peaks and valleys in the hysteresis cycle, but of course that lengthens the pre-heat time because that thermal mass has to absorb heat. And that thermal mass can also impact the air flow in the oven.

              Convection oven fans are designed to increase air circulation, which generally means more constant heat and faster cooking times, because the oven is more efficient at heating the cooking utensils and the food in them. It also generally speeds up the hysteresis cycle time and, if properly designed, will narrow the range between the top and bottom temperatures seen at the sensor.

              in reply to: What’s your 2016 Thanksgiving Menu? #5639
              Mike Nolan
              Keymaster

                Ham has more carbs than do some other types of proteins, like beef or chicken. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

                in reply to: What’s your 2016 Thanksgiving Menu? #5636
                Mike Nolan
                Keymaster

                  These days we seem to have to choose between a ham slice or a spiral sliced ham, both fully cooked. The spiral sliced ham is really too much for the two of us. Ham is higher in carbs than other proteins, probably due to sugar-curing, so we haven't had much ham lately.

                  Is your oven totally non-functional at this point, or could you use an oven thermometer to reheat a fully-cooked ham?

                  I'll make the pie dough tomorrow night and make the pie Wednesday evening, which is also when I'll check to make sure the turkey breast is fully thawed. Dinner's at 5 or later, so I don't have to start cooking at an ungodly hour. When I was a boy, my grandmother used to do two seatings for Thanksgiving dinner, one at 11AM for her relatives from Iowa and another one at 1:30 for the local family, including us, after my grandfather closed the drug store for the day. She'd start one turkey cooking on Wednesday and a second one at 5AM on Thursday. And these were 18-22 pound behemoths!

                  in reply to: Martha Stewart Rolls & Biscuits #5623
                  Mike Nolan
                  Keymaster

                    You'd think she could have narrowed it down a bit.

                    Mike Nolan
                    Keymaster

                      You need the collagen/gelatin in bones and cartilage in order to make adequate stock (I never make chicken broth), and I've found that the 'secret ingredient' is parsnips, if I leave them out the stock is bland.

                      If I find hind quarters on sale, sometimes I'll brown them in the oven and make brown chicken stock, discarding the meat afterwards, but usually I use a whole chicken (without the giblets) plus any bones that I've saved up from when I debone breasts.

                      I wish I could find an expensive source for chicken backs, though. I"m not paying $1.99 a pound for them and the online sources all seem to be for pet food and are labeled not for human consumption. One of these days I'm going to contact the Smart Chicken folks in Tecumseh NE to see if they'll sell me a 40 pound box of chicken backs from their cut-up chicken production line. Tecumseh NE is only about a 30 minute drive from here.

                      Mike Nolan
                      Keymaster

                        I tried what I think is a significant improvement on my Chicken Mirepoix recipe, topping it with fontina cheese and sauteed mushrooms and red peppers.

                        in reply to: What Did You Bake the Week of November 13, 2016? #5615
                        Mike Nolan
                        Keymaster

                          I made another Celebration Challah, it came out about as nice as the one I posted a photo of a few weeks ago. We took it to a dinner party and brought maybe half of it back home, so I'm looking forward to a little French Toast.

                          in reply to: Dinner roll recipes in WSJ #5599
                          Mike Nolan
                          Keymaster

                            The question still remains, what kind of baking powder are they using, does it use aluminum or not?

                            in reply to: Restaurants rediscovering whole wheat bread #5596
                            Mike Nolan
                            Keymaster

                              It may depend on when and where the chef/baker was trained. Some cooking and baking schools were late to the party on 'rediscovering' whole wheat breads. The artisan bread movement started in small bakeries and home kitchens.

                              I was interested in his $6000 flour mill, which looks like it is made of wood, I wonder if it was custom made?

                              in reply to: Ina’s Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits #5587
                              Mike Nolan
                              Keymaster

                                Many sea salts are naturally high in iodine and other trace minerals. Himalayan sea salt is said to be especially high in iodine. (There's the makings of a joke there.)

                                in reply to: Ina’s Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits #5586
                                Mike Nolan
                                Keymaster

                                  Foods other than seafood that are said to be rich in iodine include:

                                  Navy Beans
                                  Bananas
                                  Strawberries
                                  Turkey
                                  Milk and milk products, including yogurt and cheese
                                  Prunes
                                  Eggs
                                  Green Beans
                                  Corn
                                  Potatoes (especially baked, other forms of cooking may leach the iodine out)

                                  However, fruits and vegetables may not be as high in iodine if not grown in iodine-rich soils.

                                  Source: http://bembu.com/iodine-rich-foods

                                Viewing 15 posts - 7,381 through 7,395 (of 7,779 total)