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Topic: My Mom’s and My Pumpkin Pie
My Mom's and My Pumpkin Pie (from Marliss Desens)
This recipe makes filling for a deep 9-inch Emile Henry ceramic pie plateMy mother made pumpkin pie every Thanksgiving when I was growing up. She used the available jack-o-lantern pumpkins (even one that had been carved for Halloween!), and the watery homemade puree filling took forever to set. I recall her repeatedly sticking knives in the center to see if the filling was done, and when it was, it left a crack. We loved them anyway, despite her move to prepared pie crust mix. I took over the pie baking when I went to college. The recipe probably came from a can of evaporated milk, a can of pumpkin, a bottle of Karo dark corn syrup, or maybe a combination of the three. I’ve adapted it over the years, most notably by deleting the water, and adjusting the filling to fit an Emile Henry pie plate. I have retained my mother’s spice combination but grate my own nutmeg. I use either a sugar (pie) pumpkin or a “peanut” pumpkin for the puree. Pre-cooking the filling is a technique I adopted from a Cooks’ Illustrated recipe. To reduce saturated fat, I now use a partially blind-baked oil pie crust, but I’ve not tried to reduce the saturated fat in the filling, since Cooks’ Illustrated states that fat is key for a custard pie to set. I don’t consider the eggs problematic, but there is 2 Tbs. butter, and full-fat evaporated milk. It’s a holiday indulgence.
9-inch partially blind-baked pie crust
2 ½ cups pumpkin puree (625g or 1 lb., 6 oz.)
1 cup plus 2 Tbs. light brown sugar, packed
1 Tbs. melted, unsalted butter
1 ½ Tbs. Karo dark corn syrup
1 ½ tsp. cinnamon
Slightly heaping ½ tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 tsp. salt
1 cup plus 2 Tbs. (9 oz.) full-fat evaporated milk3 eggs
Prepare Whole Wheat Pastry Flour Oil Pie Crust or crust of your choice. Shortly before blind-baking it, prepare the filling.
Reserve the eggs. In 3-quart heavy saucepan, combine all the other ingredients. While the pie shell is partially blind-baking, heat pumpkin mixture over medium-low heat, stirring as needed, until mixture thickens and is bubbly. Remove from heat.
After pie shell comes out, proceed. Put about ½ cup of filling in a small bowl and whisk in one egg. Add this mixture to the rest of the pumpkin mixture and whisk to combine. Whisk in, separately, the other two eggs.
Pour filling into hot crust. If you have leftover filling (hey, it happens), grease a small dish and bake it as custard, adding it after you turn down the heat and removing it when set. I place the pie dish on a round pan with a hole in the center—looks like a doughnut pizza pan—so that any run over is caught, and the center of the pie can cook evenly.
Bake pie at 425F for ten minutes. Reduce heat to 350F. Turn the pie around so that crust will bake evenly. Bake 10-15 minutes longer, but start checking after 8 minutes, and at one-minute intervals, as the pie can set up quickly. Check doneness by jiggling the pie slightly; it should shimmy and shake a bit in the center. Remove from oven. I place it on a flat surface and allow it to cool. The pie filling will finish setting as it cools. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate. The pie is best made at least a day in advance.
Whole Wheat Pastry Flour Oil Pie Crust (No Roll)
makes a 9-inch deep, single pie crust that fits a 9-inch Emile Henry ceramic pie plateMarliss Desens adapted this oil pie crust from two recipes in the King Arthur 200th Anniversary Cookbook. The recipe’s hint about whisking together the oil and buttermilk is key to making the crust successfully, so do not skip it. To use this crust with a fruit or pumpkin pie filling—that is any filling that will need baking—it is best to have that filling par-cooked or, for a pumpkin pie filling, hot, and to add it shortly after blind-baking the crust. Sprinkling panko on the bottom for a fruit pie keeps the crust from absorbing excess liquid. Pumpkin pies do not need it.
1 ¼ cup AP unbleached flour
¾ cup whole wheat pastry flour (I used Bob’s Red Mill)
2 tsp. sugar (delete for savory pies)
1 tsp. salt½ cup canola oil
¼ cup buttermilkPanko for sprinkling before filling
Stir together dry ingredients in small, deep bowl.
In measuring cup, whisk together oil and buttermilk until it blends in a white, milky emulsion. I usually whisk for at least one minute.
Pour the oil-buttermilk mixture into the center of the dry ingredients. Begin tossing with a pastry fork, then switch to s bowl scraper to bring the dough together.
Press evenly into pie plate on bottom and sides, building up around the top edge to make a rim. Cover with saran and refrigerate for an hour. (I’ve had good results, even if it sits for two to three hours.)
Preheat oven to 425F about 20 minutes before you want to par-bake. Line pie crust with parchment, or foil (I use an industrial coffee filter.) and fill with dried beans. (I keep a supply of these for pie crust and re-use them again and again.)
Bake the crust for 12-15 minutes.
Remove pie plate from oven. Remove the liner with the beans. Allow to cool about 3 minutes
For fruit pies: filling should be par-cooked and ready when the crust is removed from the oven. Sprinkle the bottom with panko before adding the filling and a streusel crust. Baking temperature and time will vary, depending on the filling. For apple pie, I bake at 400F for 15 minutes, then reduce temperature to 375F for 30-40 minutes. For my blueberry pie, I bake at 400F but tent with foil for 40 minutes, then remove for an additional 10-15 minutes.
For pumpkin pies: Delete panko. Add hot pumpkin pie filling directly to crust, then bake according to pumpkin pie recipe
What I Changed:
I replaced ¾ cup AP flour with whole wheat pastry flour
I reduced the salt by ¼ tsp.
I decreased the vegetable oil by 2 Tbs.
I replaced milk with buttermilk and increased it from 3 Tbs to 4 Tbs. (1/4 cup)I replaced the directions with my own for clarity. The original recipe does not give any directions on how to use the crust with fillings once it is blind-baked.
Topic: Zojirushi BBCC-X20
Although it was in the 20s this morning, my husband and I went to a garage sale. Given its location, we though there would be some good items, and one of the listed items was a Zojirushi bread maker. I've been on the lookout for one of those, since I like the bread maker for kneading smaller recipes, and while my current one (also from a garage sale) performs nicely, I know that it won't last forever. The King Arthur test kitchens really like the Zo, with its two kneading paddles.
The machine turned out to be the Zo BBCC-X20, a model that came out at least ten years ago. It appears to have been used, but not often. This family, given what was on sale, appears to go through phases then lose interest, and from talking with the lady, I gathered that happened with breadmaking. She didn't have the manual, but I knew that I could find it online. I decided to buy it for $40.
I've downloaded the PDF instruction manual. There is the usual direction to put the yeast in last, on top of the dry ingredients, which will not work with my active yeast. It may be time to consider switching to instant yeast (and most recipes do state instant these days, even as active is still available). However, I prefer to proof my yeast and still get excited, after all these years, in seeing it bubble to life. I expect to be ordering yeast by the end of the year, as I've done a good job of working through the 2 pounds I bought last year, so maybe it is time to switch.
I hope that I got a good deal. I look forward to trying it out. If anyone has a Zo, I would appreciate any suggestions or advice.