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Hartshorn/Baking Ammonia Recipes
Submitted by bettina on April 28, 2005 at 11:05 am

DESCRIPTION
Hartshorn/baking ammonia recipes

SUMMARY
Yield 0 File under Misc. Recipes & Requests

INSTRUCTIONS
From an online article regarding speculaas, and springerle molds:

German specialty cookies look almost too good to eat

By Linda Giuca

HARTFORD COURANT

Like Santa and the elves who work weeks in advance to fill the toy orders of hopeful boys and girls, German bakers never wait until the last minute to bake the spice cookie called "spekulatius."

"My grandmother would start two months before Christmas," says Ragna Tischler Goddard, who grew up in Germany. "There would be all these tins, because the cookies have to cure. The aroma would permeate the house. To me, Christmas in Germany is all about the aroma."

As this holiday season approaches, Goddard's husband, Tom, is continuing the tradition of baking the fragrant and ornate cookies. Unlike doughs that are dropped by tablespoons onto a cookie sheet or rolled and cut out with cookie cutters, spekulatius (speck-you-lah-tee-us) cookies take their shape from special molds.

Intricate designs are carved into planks of wood. The gingerbread-colored, pliable dough is pressed into these designs, then popped out of the mold onto cookie sheets and baked. The resulting cookie is a mirror image of the design.

"They are pictures that you can eat," says Tom Goddard, who is pastry chef and co-owner, with his wife, at Sundial Gardens' tearoom in Higganum, Connecticut. The Goddards own some antique spekulatius molds, dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, that they bought from an antiques dealer. The rectangular wooden molds themselves are works of art and hang on the walls in the couple's home. One oversize mold, called a betrothal mold, has the carved indentation of a bride on one side and the bridegroom on the other. The figures are so large that the molded cookies probably would overhang a modern-day cookie sheet.

Another mold holds a collection of animal figures, including a pig, horse and wolf. "I think that the original animal crackers probably came from these cookies," Tom Goddard says. Inanimate objects such as a smoker's pipe, a musket and a holiday wreath also are represented among the Goddards' molds.

Too good to eat

Spekulatius look almost too good to eat. "When we were in Germany, we saw them hanging on red ribbons in bakery windows," Ragna Goddard says. The cookies are not only a staple at Christmastime but also baked for special occasions, such as an anniversary, when they are given as edible gifts.

The spicy, crisp cookie is a specialty of Germany's Rhine area and Holland, says the Web site http://www.epicurious.com. The name spekulatius -- or "speculaas," as they are called in Holland -- is derived from the Latin word for an overseer, which in the fourth century was one of the duties of a bishop.

Spekulatius are not to be confused with another German specialty, "springerle," another holiday cookie. Springerle, a confectioners' sugar dough often flavored with lemon oil, are rolled cookies, usually cut into squares, with a design pressed into the dough. These cookies are set aside for a day or two to set before baking, so that the dough doesn't puff up during baking and destroy the design, Tom Goddard says.

Where springerle dough is creamy white and delicately flavored, spekulatius dough is "heavily spiced and very hearty," he says, although the flavor isn't that pronounced right from the oven. "As the cookies age, the pungent spices like cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg and cardamom develop their distinctive flavors."

The Goddards have found that children gravitate toward spekulatius, especially when the shapes take the form of St. Nicholas, muskets and animals. Springerle, the Goddards say, are more appealing to adults because their elegant designs seem destined for nibbling with afternoon tea.

Spekulatius molds are available by mail order from House on the Hill in Villa Park, Ill., which specializes in reproductions of old cookie molds. The company has a variety of spekulatius molds and springerle stamps. The spekulatius molds range in price from $16 to about $50. For information, call 630-279-4455 or visit http://www.houseonthehill.net.

Springerle molds, including rolling pins engraved with designs, are easier to find at local kitchenware shops.

SPEKULATIUS

Yield depends on mold

Although baking soda can be substituted, Goddard's recipes for spekulatius and springerle call for ammonium bicarbonate, also known as hirschorn salz. This leavening, similar to baking soda, is used in European baking.

3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted

1/2 teaspoon ammonium bicarbonate or baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper (optional)

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened at room temperature

1 cup packed light brown sugar

-1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk

1. In a large bowl, combine the flour, ammonium bicarbonate or baking soda, salt and the spices. (The white pepper adds a bit more "spicy tang" to the flavor but is not necessary, Tom Goddard says.) Set aside.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough paddle, beat the butter and brown sugar on medium speed until thoroughly blended, about 3 to 4 minutes. On low speed, gradually add about half of the flour mixture. Stop mixer from time to time to scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula to incorporate the unmixed flour.

3. Add the milk and remaining flour and mix until a dough begins to form. It will look crumbly. Remove bowl from the mixer and, with lightly floured hands, form a ball with the dough, then place on a lightly floured countertop and knead until soft and firm. Cut the dough into 6 to 8 pieces, wrap individually in plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 to 3 days to allow the spice mixture to develop.

4. When ready to mold the cookies, remove several pieces of dough from the refrigerator and allow them to soften a bit.

5. Lightly flour each cookie mold; turn over; and tap to remove excess flour.

6. On a lightly floured surface, roll out a portion of the dough. Press dough firmly into the cavity of each mold. Cut away any excess dough from the borders, then turn over the mold and tap gently to release the unbaked dough. (If dough does not pull away easily from the mold, use the tip of a paring knife to release it.)

7. Put cookies on parchment-covered cookie sheet and bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes. (If you are not ready to bake the cookies after unmolding them, return them to the refrigerator to keep their shape.)

8. Remove cookies from cookie sheet and cool thoroughly. Store spekulatius between wax paper in covered tin containers.

No analysis available.

SPRINGERLE

Yield depends on mold

1/4 teaspoon ammonium bicarbonate or baking soda

1 tablespoon milk

3 large eggs

3 cups sifted confectioners' sugar

4 tablespoons softened unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon lemon, almond or anise oil

21/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour

1. In a small bowl, mix the ammonium bicarbonate and the milk; set aside.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer outfitted with a wire whip, beat the eggs until thick, about 10 to 12 minutes. Gradually beat in the confectioners' sugar and softened butter. Add the milk mixture, salt and lemon oil.

3. Change to the dough paddle of the mixer and gradually add about three-quarters of the flour, mixing until incorporated. With a wooden spoon, add the remaining flour until dough begins to stiffen.

4. Transfer dough to a lightly floured countertop, and continue to knead in as much flour as possible. The dough should be firm and not sticky.

5. On a lightly floured surface, roll out a portion of the dough to about 1/2-inch thick. Lightly flour each springerle cookie press; turn over; and tap to remove excess flour. Firmly press each mold into the dough. With a sharp knife dipped in flour, cut around each design. With a spatula, put cookies on parchment-covered cookie sheet and let them rest for at least two days before baking. Cookies need to air dry for this period of time in order for the designs to remain when baked. Cover lightly with a sheet of wax paper or a clean dish towel while they are resting.

6. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 300 degrees. Bake cookies in upper level of oven for 10 to 12 minutes, depending on size and thickness. Watch carefully. Cookies should not be brown at all; they should be pale, almost like the unbaked dough. When cool, cookies can be stored between wax paper in tin containers.

No analysis available.

From a German vegetarian products website, Zwergenwiese. One of the ingredients listed here is their basil spread, which is used as a bread spread, according to their product listing. I have no idea whether this is truly called for, or if it's a "boo-boo"! I've contacted the firm for their advice, on whether it can be omitted, or not.

Coconut gingerbread
Ingredients:
300g whole-wheat flour, 250g coconut flakes, 290g honey, 400ml cocoa-milk, 50 g milled nuts, 50g milled almonds, 4 tablespoon oat flakes, 3 heaped tablespoon, basil spread, 2-3 tablespoon rum, 2 teaspoon baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt of hartshorn, 1 pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon gingerbread spice, 1 teaspoon cinnamon
prep: Mix it all, spread it on a greased baking tray and decorate with half almonds. Bake at 160C degrees for about 35-40 min

From a Swedish website:

Swedish easter cake (Semla)
This is a Swedish easter cake, that should be eaten on the tuesday four weeks before easter - but it tastes so good that everybody is more than happy to break this rule...

1 eggs
1 dl of sugar
100 g butter
1 pinch of salt
3 dl of milk
1 l of flour
1/2 tsp of salt of hartshorn

Filling
1/2 dl of ground almonds per bun
1/2 dl of sugar per bun
some milk

Topping
Whipped cream - lots of it.

Melt the butter and add the milk. Pour into a bowl. Add yeast and mix. Add sugar and salt, and then the flour, a little at the time. Let the dough rise for an hour (to doubble size).
Make the buns. Let them grow for half an hour on a buttered baking tin. Paint with some egg. Bake in the oven at 250? C for 10 min.
NOTE: do this just before eating
Now let the buns cool and then cut of a small lid on top (triangular or circular, depending on taste). Make the lid just big enough for next step. Now take out the interior of the bun with a spoon. Make as big a hollow as you dare.
Now mix the ground almond with the dough you took out and with the sugar. Add milk until it looks like some kind of porrige. Put this back into the buns.
Whip the cream and put on top (lots of it - never mind the calories) and to crown the cake - the lid.

You either enjoy this as a desert after, for instance, soup, or with strong coffe at teatime. Some people enjoy eating it out of a bowl with warm milk in it. This is called (hetv?gg), and it's nice - the semla gets a bit soggy this way.

Love Staffan

From an Epicurious thread re hartshorn cookie recipes:

Several of my mothers old cookie recipes
use hartshorn and I make some of them. The
first two recipes are hers and they are
rather similar to cookies I?ve seen in
Swedish cookbooks. The rest are from a
Swedish book published around 1950.

I use metric measures and haven?t converted
them. Let me know if you need help with
conversions.

Coconut cookies

200 g all purpose flour
100 g shredded coconut
200 g butter
125 g sugar
1 tbsp cocoa
1/2 tsp hartshorn
1/2 tsp vanilla essence
1 egg
extra sugar for dipping

Preheat oven to 400 F. Mix all the
ingredients and knead the dough into a ball.
Take a piece of the dough and roll it into a
roll as thick as a finger. Cut into small
pieces (the size should be somewhere between
walnut and hazelnut), flatten them slightly,
dip one side into sugar and place them,
sugared side up, on a baking sheet covered
with parchment paper (they do not spread
much). Bake on a top shelf for around 8
minutes.

Potato flour cookies

100 g potato flour
100 g flour
100 g sugar
1/2 tsp hartshorn
100 g butter
1/2 egg
some dark chocolate (optional)

Mix potato flour, flour, sugar and hartshorn
and cut the cold butter into the mixture.
Make a well in the middle, pour the egg into
it and mix the dry ingredients gradually
into it. Knead the dough into a ball and
refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Preheat
oven to 380 F. Roll and cut into small
pieces as in the previous recipe but do not
flatten. Place on papered baking sheet (they
do not spread much) and bake for 8-10
minutes, or until they are just beginning to
color faintly. Cool them. If wished, melt
some chocolate and dribble it from a
teaspoon over the cookies, moving the spoon
to and fro.

Jewish cookies

175 g flour
1/2 tsp hartshorn
100 g butter
50 g sugar
1 1/2 egg
25 g chopped almonds
2 tbps pearl sugar (very coarse sugar; same
as rock sugar??)

Sift flour and hartshorn and cut the cold
butter into it. Make a well in the middle,
break the whole egg into it and mix the dry
ingredients gradually into it. Knead into a
ball, adding some flour if needed.
Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Preheat
oven to 400 F. Roll the dough out thin and
cut out circles, 2 ? 2 1/ 2 inches in
diameter. Place on a papered cookie sheet,
brush with remaining egg, sprinkle with
almonds and pearl sugar and bake on a top
shelf until they begin to brown slightly at
the edges.

French pepperkaker (but they are Swedish
anyway)

250 g butter
200 g sugar
200 g golden syrup
125 g grated almonds
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp cloves
1 tsp hartshorn
around 650 g flour

Whip the butter until soft. Add sugar, syrup
and spices, then add most of the flour and
the hartshorn. Knead the dough thoroughly,
adding almonds in the process. When the
dough is smooth and shiny it is rolled into
rather thick rolls. Flatten them slightly to
make them almost square, then wrap them in
cellophane and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat oven to 375 F, then cut the rolls
into thin slices with a sharp knife. Place
on papered cookie sheet and bake on the top
shelf of the oven.

Desert sand

200 g butter
200 g sugar
1 tbsp vanilla sugar (or 1 tsp vanilla
essence)
300 g flour
1 tsp hartshorn

Melt the butter and heat it until it is
about to begin to change color, then pour it
into a bowl and let cool a little. Add sugar
and mix well. Add flour, vanilla sugar and
hartshorn. Preheat oven to 325 F. Roll dough
into small balls and place on a papered
cookie sheet (or keep back a bit of flour
and use a teaspoon to shape the dough). Keep
some distance between the cookies, as they
will spread. Bake until beginning to brown
on edges. Spread the bottom of half the
cookies with jam and sandwich them togheter.
(No, I don?t know why the Swedes call them
by this name.)

From a Norwegian cooking website:

Kongsvold-kjeks
Norwegian Oat Biscuits

300g plain flour
100g sugar
130g butter
250g chopped oatmeal
2 teaspoons ammonium carbonate
1 1/2dl (150ml) milk

Preheat oven to 200'C.
Crumble the butter into all the dry ingredients. Add the milk in last.
Let stand for a few minutes.
Roll out and cut out shapes.
Bake on baking trays lined with baking paper until they are golden brown.
Store in an airtight container after cooling on a cooling rack.

From:

LEIRFALL, M.A. and PAULSEN, R. 1989, Tr?ndermat, Det Norske Samlaget, Oslo.

From House on the Hill's website...recipes and springerle molds galore!

Perfection Springerle Cookies
These whisked-egg holiday cookies date back to at least the 1600's and are made in Bavaria, Switzerland and the Alsace area of France. For eating quality, ease and quality of prints this recipe is just perfection!

1/2 teaspoon baker's ammonia (Hartshorn) or baking powder
2 tablespoons milk
6 large eggs, room temperature
6 cups powdered sugar (1 - 1 1/2 #)
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened but not melted
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon oil of anise, lemon or any other flavor (Flavors)
2 lb. box sifted cake flour (Swansdown or Softasilk)
grated rind of orange or lemon - optional (enhances flavor of the traditional anise or the citrus flavors)
more flour as needed

Recipe Directions:
Dissolve hartshorn in milk and set aside. Beat eggs till thick and lemon-colored (10-20 minutes). Slowly beat in the powdered sugar, then the softened butter. Add the hartshorn and milk, salt, preferred flavoring, and grated rind of lemon or orange, if desired. Gradually beat in as much flour as you can with the mixer, then stir in the remainder of the 2 lbs. of flour to make stiff dough. Turn onto floured surface and knead in enough flour to make a good print without sticking. Follow general directions for imprinting and drying cookies. Bake on greased or baker's parchment-lined cookie sheets at 255? to 325? till barely golden on the bottom, 10-15 minutes or more, depending on size of cookie. Store in airtight containers or in zipper bags in the freezer. They keep for months, and improve with age. Yield 3 to 12 dozen

LEMON CRACKERS
Three cups of sugar, one cup of lard, one pint of sweet milk, two eggs, five cents worth of lemon oil, five cents worth of baking ammonia. Pound the ammonia fine, and pour on it half a teacup of boiling water. Mix as stiff as bread; roll out, and cut.

From KA's recipes, with my own notes:

Vanilla Dreams

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?2002- King Arthur Flour/The Baker's Catalogue
All comments & notes on this recipe are from the above company.

Purchase Ingredients for this recipe

Our jaws dropped, literally, when we tasted these cookies in the test kitchen. As I said above, many tasters had an immediate flashback to the sugar cookies of their youth. The ultra-tender, light, melt-in-your-mouth texture is unlike anything you can get (well, at least anything we can get) using baking powder or baking soda. That said,I apologize for calling for an ingredient here that many of you may not have, but in this case, it's essential to the cookie. Baker's ammonia (ammonium carbonate) is inexpensive; it may be available in your local pharmacy, and is certainly available in our catalogue;click on the link above to reach it on our Web site.

1 1/4 cups (9 ounces) sugar
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
2 cups (8 1/2 ounces) King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
1/4 teaspoon baker's ammonia

MIXING AND SHAPING: In a medium-sized bowl, beat together the sugar, butter, salt and vanilla. Add the flour and baker's ammonia, and beat till the dough almost comes together; it'll seem quite dry at first, but keep beating, eventually it'll become chunky and cohesive. Squeeze the dough together, gather it into a ball, and break off pieces about the size of a shelled chestnut (about 3/4 ounce, about 21g). Roll the pieces into balls, and roll them in sparkling sugar (or granulated sugar) if desired. Put them on parchment-lined or lightly greased baking sheets, and use the bottom of a glass, dipped in sugar if necessary to prevent sticking, to flatten the balls to about 1/4- to 3/8-inch thick.

BAKING: Bake the cookies in a preheated 300F oven for 30 minutes, until they're a very light golden brown. Remove them from the oven, and cool on a rack. Yield: about 33 2 1/2-inch cookies.

These take EXACTLY thirty minutes, in my ovens...they will be a pale golden brown color, when done. I mix the ammonia, into the flour, and then sift it into a bowl...that way I'm ensured of not having any lumps or clumps of the ammonia powder. These cookies are GOOD!

From "Ellen's Kitchen, attributed to Nick Malgieri:

Biscotti Napoletani (honey)
NICK MALGIERI-Makes 60 Biscotti
Be careful with the first baking of these biscotti. Even though they are baked a second time after being cut, if they do not bake sufficiently the first time, the biscotti will have a hard, heavy core.

2 C all-purpose flour
3/4 C sugar
3/4 C whole, unblanched almonds, finely ground
1/2 t bicarbonate of ammonia or 1/2 t each, baking powder and baking soda
1/2 t cinnamon
3/4 C whole, unblanched almonds
1/3 C honey
1/3 C water

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350F. Combine all ingredients except honey and water in a mixing bowl and stir a minute or 2 to mix. Add the honey and water and stir until a firm dough forms.

Remove dough from bowl and divide in half. Roll each half into a log about 15 inches long. Place both logs, well apart, on a jelly roll pan lined with parchment or buttered wax paper.

Bake about 30 minutes, until well risen, firm and a dark golden color. Remove from oven, cool logs slightly and place on a cutting board.

Slice the logs diagonally at 1/2-inch intervals. Return the cut biscotti to the pan, cut side down, and bake an additional 15 minutes, until lightly colored and dry. Cool on the pan. Store in a tin--they keep well.

From "Jo's Icelandic recipes" site:

Loftkokur - Air cookies/chocolate meringues
Another cookie recipe my mother always bmakes for Christmas. These delicious candy cookies are light as air and melt on the tongue. The rising agent, baker's ammonia, unfortunately makes a big stink while the cookies are baking. I've seen these cookies for sale in Denmark, where they are called Rutebiler, or "Buses"
1 kg icing sugar 3 tsp. bakers' ammonia
3 tblsp cocoa 3 ea eggs, beaten

Mix the dry ingredients and beaten eggs and knead well. Run the dough through a cookie press or meat grinder with cookie attachment. Use this attachment:(wavy tip) . Each cake should be about 5 cm (2 inches) long. Bake in the center of the oven for 8-10 minutes at 175?C. These cookies are light and airy, with a hollow center.
The unbaked cookies don't need to be big - they will expand in size 3-4 times during the baking.

Another Icelandic recipe:

Vinarterta - Viennese cake
also called Randal?n - "The striped one"
This cake is famous among the "Western-Icelanders" - the descendants of Icelandic immigrants in Canada and the U.S. For them, there is hardly anything more Icelandic than V?narterta.
In spite of the name, I think it probably originated in Denmark. The "Western-Icelandic" version is somewhat different from this - you can find one variation at the INL recipe collection. Here is my grandmother's recipe.
500 g flour 250 g sugar
250 g margarine/butter, soft 2 ea. eggs
1 1/2 tsp. baker's ammonia (ammonium carbonate) pinch baking powder
essence of cardamom/pinch of ground cardamom

Mix together all dry ingredients. Add the margarine/butter, kneading until well mixed. Cool in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours. Roll out into a thickness of approx. 1 to 1 1/2 cm. You can divide the dough now or after baking, into as many parts as you want layers (3-5 is the usual). Try to keep each portion the same shape, size and thickness as the others. Bake in the centre of the oven at 200?C, until golden in colour and done through. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. When the cake is almost cold, spread rhubarb jam or prune jam (see recipe below) on top of all layers except one and sandwich the layers together.

-This cake freezes well and thaws quickly, and is liked by almost everyone.
-Brown V?narterta: Add some cocoa to the recipe and use vanilla butter icing instead of jam, or alternate layers of icing and jam
-Alternate layers of jam and butter icing
To make prune jam: take one kilo (approx. 2 lbs.) prunes with pits, or equivalent in pitted prunes. Soak the prunes in water to soften and remove the pits. Mince the prunes and cook on low for 30 minutes with 650 g sugar. Cool before spreading on cake.

From a Swedish genealogy site:

Anette Alm, Kallinge

Pretzels for Coffee
7oo ml wheat flour
100 ml sugar
3-4 tsp hartshorn
1 cup cream
150-200g butter, room temperature

Place the wheat flour on the work surface. Add the sugar and hartshorn. Add the soft butter. Mix the butter and flour lightly with your hands. Lastly you add the cream. Kneed it all together to a soft dough. If it feels too soft you can add some flour. Roll the dough into little rolls and shape the pretzels. Dip them in sugar. Bake in the oven in 225? Centigrade, for about 5 minutes.

Keep an eye on them because one minute they have no colour and the next they are black!

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Norwegian:

COOKIES: SIRUPSNIPPER

9 T. cream
1/2 cup + 2-1/2 T. syrup
1/2 cup + 2-1/2 T. sugar
7 T. butter
2 cups flour
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/4 tsp. ginger
1/4 tsp. anise
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
3/4 tsp. hartshorn salt
3/4 tsp. baking soda
Almonds, blanched, for decorating

Boil cream, syrup, and sugar together. Stir in butter and let mixture cool until lukewarm. Sift in dry ingredients and knead the dough to mix thoroughly. Chill overnight. Roll dough out to be as thin as possible and cut into diamond shapes. Lay on a greased baking sheet. Place half a blanched almond on each cookie. For a shiny finish, brush cookies with egg white. Bake at 350? F for 5 minutes.

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Excerted from December, 1999, Viking Magazine "Velkommen til Bords." Recipe from TINE Norske Meierier, the Norwegian dairy cooperative. Recipe is translated and converted from metric to U.S. measurements.

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Pfefferneusse

1 lb sugar
1 lb flour
1/4 lb citron
1/4 lb almonds
4 eggs
1 tsp each cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg [ground]
Grated rind of 1 lemon
1/2 tsp hartshorn crystals [avail. at drugstores]
Beat together the eggs and sugar until light. Sift together the dry
ingredients and add the hartshorn crystals which have been crushed well. Let
dough stand overnight. Next day, form balls the size of a large walnut.
Make a thin mixture of powdered sugar and milk and brush it on the cookies .
Flatten them slightly, bake at 300 F until brown, possibly 20 minutes.

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Danish Christmas Baking

PEBERN?DDER (peppernuts):
(Makes approx. 400)

1 cup sirup
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter
3 1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon chrushed cloves
1 teaspoon cinnamon
grated rind of 1 lemon
1/2 oz. potash potash (potassium bicarbonate)
pinch of salt of hartshorn

This sounds like an awful lot of peppernuts. But Christmas lasts quite a long time and no Danish family has ever found they had enough of them.

Boil sirup, butter and sugar together in a pot. When cool, sift in the rest of the ingredients. The dough must be allowed to stand for 48 hours, preferably in a warm place. Knead dough again and roll out to 1/2 in. thickness. Cut into small pieces and form into balls. Place on greased cookie sheet and bake in moderate oven.

KLEJNER (smalls):
(Makes approx. 150)

4 cups flour
1 cup butter
1/4 cup cream
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon of hartshorn
3 eggs
vanilla

An old Danish Christmas custom demands that no visitor to your house during Christmas may be allowed to leave without having tasted your Christmas cookies otherwise you risk of the visitor?s ?carrying the Christmas spirit away?. So you might as well make a double portion of >these while you are at it.

Mix all the ingredients together into a dough and set aside to cool for about half an hour. Roll out thin and cut into strips about 1 1/4 in. wide. (cut the strips across diagonally into smaller strips about 3 1/2 in. in length. In the middle of each of these smaller pieces make a slash with the point of a knife. Pull one end of the piece through the slash to form a halfknot. Drop into boiling fat and cook until golden brown, turning now and again with a fork. Lift out with a perforated spoon and place in a strainer to allow the fat to drip off.

BRUNE KAGER (brown cookies)
(Makes approx. 300)

1 2/3 cups sirup
1 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup butter
4 cups flour
1/2 oz. potash
1/2 teaspoon salt of hartshorn
1/4 oz. crushed cinnamon
1/4 oz. ginger
1/4 oz. cardemom
grated rind of 1 lemon
almonds

Melt the butter in a pot. Add sirup and brown sugar and heat. Stir in the spices, then the potash and the salt of hartshorn (previously dissolved in a little water). When cool, sift in flour and let the batter stand 24 hours. Roll out very thin. Cut into round shapes with a wineglass, or diamonds, or squares, or, if you are feeling ambitious and want to enter into the Christmas spirit, form little men, women, hearts, flags etc. brush with water. Stick a whole almond on the top of each cookie, or else a few chopped pieces. Bake in a slow oven.

Copyright 1998 Consulate

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Christmas cookies, that not only taste delicious but also give your home the lovely scent of Christmas.
Christmas cookies with a taste of honey
250 g honey

1 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp cloves

1/2 tsp ginger

1 eggyolk

2 tsp potash (from a pharmacy)

11/2 tsp hartshorn

4 dl flour

Pour honey in a saucepan and let it melt over mild heat. Mix in the spices. Mix the potash first with the eggyolk and then with the honey. Mix in flour and hartshorn. Knead the dough carefully. Put the dough in the fridge until next day. (Enjoy "glogg" in the meantime - i.e. Swedish mulled wine)

Roll out the dough on a table on which you have sprinkled flour and use specific molds to take out different shapes of cookies.

Bake in oven, in 175 degrees, for 5-10 minutes, depending on the size.

_______________________________________________________

From germanusa.com...

Potash can be obtained through German markets...and according to this site, here:

Potassium Bicarbonate
Potassium bicarbonate is one of the substances known as potash. This, as well as potassium carbonate, is also known as pearl ash. It is KHCO3. The potassium bicarbonate used in these tests was purchased at a home brewery supply store. It is manufactured by Crosby and Baker, Ltd.

Traditional Recipes

Recipes which are made but once a year are something special, something to look forward to, something belonging to, and part of a festivity. Tradition means the transmission of customs and practices through successive generations. Old German recipes could almost be called verbal inheritance because they have been handled down through centuries, each generation changing them a bit to adapt them to its own lifestyle.

Those who know old German traditions know that one would never find Lebkuchen or Pfeffernuesse in the bakeries at any other time but Christmas. Marzipan may be used as an almond filling in cakes or candies throughout the year, but has its special place in the traditional Christmas market. Then it is decorated with candied fruits, made into heart-shaped forms, vegetables, fruits, birds and animals.

The housewife who properly prepare Christmas cookies must follow a strenuous program and must begin her preparations about the first of November. The dough which is mixed with honey should stand for some time for fermentation and ripening of flavor. Be assured also that if she once begins to provide these delicacies for the Christmas season, the family will always demand them. The taste will be connected with Christmas and it will never be Christmas again without them. However, the appreciation is ample payment for all the work.

The first step is to assemble all the spices, to chop and grind the nuts and fruit. Care should be taken to gauge the quantity needed, for it takes nearly all of one day to cut and bake a large recipe of Pfeffernuesse, and the forming of Marzipan is also a very slow and time-consuming process.

The following recipes will show how these old Christmas cookies can be made in small batches. I give the traditional recipes intended to provide sweets throughout the whole Christmas season.

Peffernuesse

Honey Mixture

1/2 cup water
2 cups brown sugar
3/4 pounds honey
1 tablespoons butter
Heat to a boil and pour hot over the flour and spice mixture:

7 cups flour
1 teaspoon ground anise seed or 1/4 teaspoon anise oil
1 tablespoon ground cardamon seed
grated peel of 1/2 orange and 1/4 lemon
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 pound finely chopped citron
1/8 pound finely chopped almonds, if desired
1 1/2 teaspoons almond extract
1/2 tablespoon salt
When the two parts are mixed, add 1 teaspoon of potash (potassium bicarbonate) dissolved in a little water. When the mixture is slightly cooled, add the beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Then add 1/2 teaspoon of hartshorn (ammonium carbonate or bakers ammonia) dissolved in a little water (rosewater is preferred). Mix thoroughly and let rest one to two weeks in the refrigerator. Roll stiff in long pieces the thickness of a finger, cut in small slices, about 1/4 inch thick, using more flour if necessary. Bake in a 300 degrees oven for about 20-30 minutes. Pack away in a tin container.

Honigkuchen or Lebkuchen

Honey Mixture

1 pound honey
1/2 pound sugar
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 teaspoon water
Pour hot over the flour mixture:

1 1/2 pounds flour (5-6 cups)
1 tablespoon ground cloves
grated peel of 1/2 orange and 1/2 lemon
1/4 pound citron chopped very fine
a little cardamon
a little cinnamon
1 pinch ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
After pouring the hot honey mixture over the flour mixture, add 2 teaspoons of hartshorn (see previous recipe) dissolved in a little warm water. Let cool and add 4 egg yolks and then 1 teaspoon of potash dissolved in a little warm water. Let rest in the refrigerator for about 8 days. Roll out about 1/4 inch thick, cut in forms and bake at 300 degrees for about 20 minutes. Cover with white or chocolate frosting. It may also be baked in a flat form and decorated with almonds. Cut while hot.

R?derkuchen or Hobelsp?ne

2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 egg
1/8 pound butter
a little grated lemon peel
less than 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
almond extract as desired
Mix all dry ingredients. Chill the butter and cut into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or a knife. Then beat the egg, add to flour mixture and mix thoroughly. Roll out thin and cut with a notched curly wheel, first in parallel lines, and once inch apart, then crossing these lines diagonally at the distance of 2 1/2 inches apart. Next cut a little slit in the middle of each of the rhombus-shaped pieces, and draw one end through the slit. They may also be shaped in the form of a wheel. Fry in a bout 3/4 pounds of deep fat. Drain on paper and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

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From "My Old-fashioned recipes:

OLD-FASHIONED HAMBURGER COOKIES
Take one pound of butter one pound of sugar, yolks of six eggs, hard-boiled, and flour enough to make a dough that is not too stiff.

Dissolve three cents worth of ammonia (hartshorn) in scalded milk. Place the ammonia in a large bowl and pour one cup of scalding milk over it. After this has cooled add it to the dough with one-half cup of cold milk. Flavor to taste. Flour the pans and the cookie dough. Roll and proceed as with sugar cookies.

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These are all from the Sweet Celebrations site:

Bakers' Ammonia is a leavening ingredient called for in many old world recipes, especially those from Scandinavia. It is also called "hartshorn".
Unlike baking powder or soda, Bakers' Ammonia (ammonium carbonate) leaves no unpleasant alkaline off-flavor in baked goods. It is used for cookies, crackers and cream puff-type pastries, items which are small, thin or porous. It is not used for cakes or other large items because the ammonia gas cannot evaporate from these items. You will notice an odor of ammonia while baking, but this will quickly dissipate and the baked product will not have an odor or taste of ammonia.

Because Bakers' Ammonia has a tendency to evaporate when exposed to air, it should be stored in a jar with a tight cover. It will not spoil, but will "disappear" if not stored properly.

Dream Cookie
Delicate, light cookies that melt in your mouth
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. Vanilla Sugar
1 tsp. Bakers' Ammonia
1 cup butter or margarine
1/2 cup sugar
48 almond halves, blanched or unblanched

Preheat oven to 275 F. Prepare baking sheet(s) by greasing or by lining with Kitchen Parchment (#64858). Thoroughly combine the flour, Vanilla Sugar and Bakers' Ammonia. Set aside. Cream butter and sugar until light. Add the dry ingredients. Blend well. Form the dough into 48 small balls. Press down lightly on prepared baking sheet. Press an almond half on top of each. Be sure to keep cookies small. Yield: 4 dozen 2" cookies.

German Cookies or Princess Gems
Crackle topped cookies with golden coconut accents.
1 cup butter
1/2 cup margarine
2 tsp. Bakers' Ammonia 2 cups sugar
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup flaked coconut

Preheat oven to 325 F. Cream butter and margarine. Add the Bakers' Ammonia and sugar; cream well. Add flour, a little at a time, mixing thoroughly. Fold in coconut. Form into 3/4" balls and place 1" apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until light brown around the edges. Yield: Approximately 101/2 dozen 3/4" cookies.

Lemon Sweet Crackers
Fragile, light, tender lemon cookies
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 1/2 tsp. Bakers' Ammonia
1/2 cup shortening
1 cup sugar
1 egg white
1/2 cup milk
2 1/4 tsp. lemon extract

Preheat oven to 350 F. Prepare baking sheet(s) by greasing or by lining with Kitchen Parchment (#64858). Thoroughly combine the flour, salt and Bakers' Ammonia. Set aside. Cream shortening and sugar well. Add egg white and beat until light. Add flour mixture to shortening mixture alternately with milk. Add lemon extract. Roll out and cut into 3" squares. Bake about 8 minutes. Yield: 6 dozen thin cookies.

Pfeffernuesse
Sweet and delicious
2 cups butter
3 cups sugar
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. Bakers' Ammonia
1 cup finely ground almonds

Cream butter and sugar until fluffy. Combine flour, Bakers' Ammonia and ground almonds. Blend the two mixtures together well. Form into small balls (about 3/4") and freeze overnight.
Preheat oven to 300 F. Place frozen balls of dough on ungreased cookie sheets and bake 15 to 20 minutes or until a delicate brown on bottom. Yield: About 20 dozen tiny cookies.

Cream Puffs
Tender and tasty puffy shells
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup shortening or butter or margarine
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. milk
3 eggs
1/2 tsp. Bakers' Ammonia

Preheat oven to 400 F. Prepare baking sheet(s) by greasing and flouring or by lining with Kitchen Parchment (#64858). Place water and shortening (or butter or margarine) in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the flour and salt all at once and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan and forms a ball. Blend in the milk well. Remove pan from stove burner and stir in the eggs, one at a time, stirring well until completely blended. Mix in the Bakers' Ammonia well. Drop on cookie sheets about 3 to 4 inches apart. Bake 20 to 25 minutes. Allow to cool completely before filling. Yield: 10 to 12 shells.

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From epicurious.com, originally posted in Gourmet magazine.

SWEDISH DREAM COOKIES(DROMMAR)
"This recipe for Swedish drommar, meaning 'dreams,' comes from my grandmother," writes Elizabeth Wigg Maxwell of New Providence, New Jersey. "She and my mother made these every Christmas when my siblings and I were growing up. As children, we were amazed that my mother had to go to the pharmacy to obtain one of the ingredients: ammonium carbonate. Equally incredible was the fact that something which smelled so horrible helped make such delicious cookies!"
"Years ago, I began baking drommar for my own family. I called the local pharmacy to request the unusual ingredient and was delighted when the pharmacist said, 'You must be making those Swedish cookies!'"

Ammonium carbonate, used by European bakers, makes especially crisp cookies. Its smell, which you may find off-putting while making the dough, disappears completely in the baking process.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened
1 1/4 cups sugar
1 teaspoon crushed ammonium carbonate (also called baker?s ammonium)
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 1/2 cups sweetened flaked coconut

Sift together flour and salt.
Beat together butter and sugar with an electric mixer until pale and fluffy. Beat in ammonium carbonate and almond extract until combined well. Mix in flour mixture at low speed just until blended, then stir in coconut. Form dough into a disk and chill, wrapped in plastic wrap, until firm, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 300?F.

Roll dough into 1-inch balls and arrange 1 inch apart on greased baking sheets.

Bake cookies in batches in upper third of oven until pale golden around edges, 18 to 22 minutes. Transfer cookies to a rack to cool.

Makes about 6 dozen.

Italian...from a BC thread, member Francesca contributed these two recipes:

Francesca

recipes Baking ammonia

Here some recipes for you, they are traditionally from puglia, Italy.

Biscotti della nonna

This are biscotti we use to deep in warm milk for breakfast.
1 kilogram of flour
4 eggs and 2 yolks
200 g of milk
200 g of oil
25 g of ammonia
350 g of sugar
zest of one lemon

Beat the eggs with the sugar, add the oil, the milk and the lemon zest, the ammonia and then the flour. Mix it very well. Put the cookies on a baking sheet far apart from each other. Bake at 160 celsius for 15 mn. Let it cool and keep in a tin box.

Cassatine di ricotta

for the dough:
500 g of flour
150 g of butter
150 g of sugar
6 g of ammonia
a pinch of vanilla
1 lemon zest
milk (enough to form the dough)

For the filling
300 g of ricotta
100 g of almonds toasted and coarsely chopped)
2 yolks
100 g of sugar
1 teaspoon of cinammon
candied orange zest
a pinch of vanilla

Work all the ingredients for the dough until you get an homogeneous dough. Mix the ricotta with all the other ingredients for the filling. Take the dough and roll it in a thin layer and with a round mold of 10 centimeter in diameter cut rounds. Put in each round a little of the filling, fold the cassatina in half and seal it (like a small calzone). Put in a greased baking tray and cook at 160 celsius for about 20 minutes or until lightly gold. Let it cool, sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve it. The day after they are better. This is a traditional Easter sweet.

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From the Uncle Phadrus site, in response to an inquiry re Mennonite ammonia cookies:

White Ammonia Cookies (Gruznikje or Pfefferminzk?ake)

from Mennonite Foods and Folkways from South Russia, by Norma Jost Voth:

2 cups sugar
1 cup shortening or butter
4 level teaspoons baking ammonia dissolved in 1 cup whipping cream
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon oil of peppermint
5 to 6 cups sifted all-purpose flour

Cream sugar and shortening. Dissolve ammonia in cream. Combine cream and
milk. Add peppermint and salt to sugar mixture. Alternate sifted flour with
liquid and beat until batter is very smooth.

Roll out small portions of dough to 1/2 inch thickness on floured board. Cut
with round 2 1/2 inch cutter. Brush with a little water and sprinkle with
sugar.

Bake on greased baking sheet at 400 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes. Cookies
should not brown on top. Cool.

Baker?s ammonia (ammonium carbonate) should be purchased only in small
amounts as it evaporates quickly if not tightly contained.
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Ammonia Cookies

Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Cook Time: 10 Minutes
Ready In: 25 Minutes

2 1/2 cups white sugar
1/2 cup butter, softened
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups sour cream
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon peppermint extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons bakers' ammonia
3 cups all-purpose flour

1 Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Grease cookie sheets.
2 In a large bowl, cream together the white sugar and butter until smooth.
Beat in the eggs one at a time, then stir in the sour cream, milk and
peppermint extract. Combine the salt and bakers' ammonia with 2 cups of the
flour and blend into the mixture. Gradually add more flour to make a stiff
dough. Leave the dough soft for drop cookies or add more flour to make
cut-out cookies. Drop dough from heaping spoonfuls onto the prepared cookie
sheets.
3 Bake for 8 to 10 minutes in the preheated oven, or until golden. When
cool, ice with a simple confectioners' glaze that has been flavored with
peppermint if desired.

Makes 60 servings
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Ammonia Cookies

14 cups flour
3 tsp ammonia
3 cups sugar
4 eggs
3 sticks of butter
1 cup of milk
1/2 tsp vanilla

-Preheat oven to 200 C
-Butter baking pans
-Sift flour
-Beat eggs with sugar
-Add butter
-Dissolve ammonia to milk
-Add milk to batter
-Add flour and knead until dough is smooth
-Form the cookies in any shape you like
-Place them in pans
-Bake for 20-30 minutes
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AMMONIA COOKIES

Ingredients :
5 lb. flour
3 c. sugar
3/4 c. oleo
3/4 c. shortening
7 tsp. ammonia powder
4 eggs
2 c. milk
1/2 tsp. anise oil

Preparation :
Mix well all ingredients until dough is a very smooth consistency.
Roll dough into balls about the size of a walnut. Bake at 375
degrees for 12-15 minutes.
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AMMONIA COOKIES

Ingredients :
2 1/2 c. sugar
3 eggs, beaten
1 c. shortening
3 tbsp. baker's Ammonia
2 c. sweet milk
2 tsp. oil of lemon
1 tsp. salt
5 1/2 c. flour

Preparation :
Dissolve ammonia in milk. Cream shortening and sugar, add eggs,
and remaining ingredients using additional flour if necessary to
make it stiff enough to roll. Roll out, cut out and bake 12
minutes.
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LEMON AMMONIA COOKIES

Ingredients :
2 c. sugar
1 c. Crisco
2 eggs
1 c. milk
1 oz. Bakers ammonia
1/4 oz. pure oil of lemon
1 tsp. salt
2 to 2 1/2 lb. flour

Preparation :
Cream together sugar and Crisco. Beat in eggs. Add ammonia to
milk and stir in additional ingredients. Bake at 450 degrees.
----------------------------------
AMMONIA COOKIES

Ingredients :
1 c. butter, not margarine
1 c. shortening
2 1/2 c. sugar
1 lg. pkg. fine coconut
3 c. flour
*2 tsp. Bakers Ammonia (buy at
Drugstore)

Preparation :
Cream sugar, butter and shortening. Mix flour and ammonia
together and combine with creamed mixture. Add coconut. Roll into
balls (walnut size). Bake at 300 degrees until lightly browned 15
to 20 minutes. *Ammonia: May be crystallized so crush finely.

In the very same house in L?ngsj?ryd next to Kroken they made rye flour pretzels that filled you up nicely together with your meal, but the recipe comes from Ramdala where my grandmother grew up. Since toppings hardly exsisted they spread lard with salt on the bread instead on the halved pretzels. On special occasions one could get sugar on them. I have never had these wonderfully delicious pretzels anywhere else but at my mum's (Anita) or grandmother's (Sigrid). It's a shame that they are not so well known. But perhaps we can remedy that here on Blekingerotter.

Anette Alm, Kallinge

Rye flour Pretzels
700 ml fine rye flour
50 ml sugar
1 tsp salt
3-4 tsp hartshorn
200g margerine (or butter)
1 cup sour cream (or buttermilk)

Place the flour on the work surface. Add the sugar and hartshorn. Add the margerine, room temperature. Mix the butter and flour lightly with your hands. Lastly add the cream. Kneed it together to a dough. If it feels too soft add some wheat flour. Shape quite thick pretzels. When they come out from the oven the holes should have disappeared (it's more difficult to cut them into halves if the holes are too big).

Bake in the oven in 225? Centigrade, until they have a nice colour.

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From House on the Hill's website, commentary on baking ammonia:

Hartshorn or Baker's Ammonia
(a.k.a. Ammonium Carbonate) An old-time leavening unexcelled for any cookies, producing an especially light, delicate texture. Hartshorn and baking powder can be used interchangeably in cookie recipes. Doughs made with Hartshorn store well and its leavening action is only trigered by heat, not moisture. Not affected by age, but will evaporate! There'll be an ammonia smell during baking, but not in your cookies! It used to come in a form like rock salt, so old recipes instructed "crush with a rolling pin" then dissolve in liquid. Now, it comes in powdered form and is available from us direct.

From Victoria Packing Company's site, containing info re leavening agents:

Ammonium Bicarbonate
This forerunner of our modern and more stable leaveners is also known as powdered baking ammonia, hartshorn. Used for years in Europe to produce long-lasting crisp cookies, it must be pounded to a fine powder and then sifted with the dry ingredients or dissolved in a warm liquid such as water, rum or wine. Substitute it for the baking powder and baking soda called for in cookie and cake recipes. Buy only small amounts from the drugstore, as it quickly evaporates if not very tightly contained

From: Foodstudents site

April 2004: Baking, a light and fluffy tale (Part 2)

Part 2 Baking powder, or how an emergency solution offered the perfect solution

After a great deal had been done over the years to improve the performance of yeasts, there was suddenly a shortage of flour about 150 years ago, resulting in a shortage of bread. This presented a problem because when yeast makes the dough rise, it breaks down the flour in the process. The search for an alternative to yeast led to the discovery of a substance which has since become indispensable for baking.

In the middle of the nineteenth century a larger population had to be fed, but there was simply not enough flour.

The chemist Justus Liebig worked out that the amount of flour used up by yeast (see last month?s article) would be enough to make tens of thousands of extra loaves. In 1833 he came up with the big idea of using soda (sodium hydrogen carbonate, NaHCO3) instead of yeast. After addition of a substance with an acid reaction (potassium bitartrate, or cream of tartar), carbon dioxide was formed from the sodium bicarbonate and aerated the dough in just the same way as the fermentation gases of the yeast. This reaction marked the discovery of baking power. A baking powder made up of sodium bicarbonate, cream of tartar and starch as separator was on the market as early as 1853.

From this moment, baking powder was subjected to one improvement after another. At the beginning of the twentieth century a phosphate compound was discovered as acid carrier. This had the advantage that the carbon dioxide was not formed while the dough was being prepared but was only released afterwards when the dough was in the oven. This opened up the possibility of storing, or even freezing, ready-made dough for processing at a later time or piece by piece. Baking powder now became established in every kitchen and every bakery.

Baking powder in all its various forms is made up of three ingredients: a carbon dioxide carrier, an acid carrier and a separator.

The carbon dioxide carrier is the ingredient in baking powder which releases carbon dioxide when acted on by acid or heat. Sodium bicarbonate is almost always used for this purpose, and occasionally potash (potassium carbonate, K2CO3) or salts of hartshorn (a mixture of different ammonium carbonates).

Many substances are suitable as acid carriers. The ones most commonly used in modern baking powders are phosphate salts, though less frequently also cream of tartar, tartaric acid or citric acid.

The job of the separator is to dilute the carbon dioxide carrier and the acid carrier and separate them from one another to prevent them from reacting with one another before required. The separators used are starch and flour.
When the carbon dioxide carrier reacts with the acid carrier, the baking powder decomposes and carbon dioxide is formed. In this reaction, a distinction is drawn between two-component and one-component baking powders.

The two-component baking powder is the usual type which can be bought everywhere. It contains specified amounts of carbon dioxide carrier and acid carrier from which a given volume of carbon dioxide is formed in contact with a given amount of flour. One sachet of baking powder (18 g) contains about 2.5 g of bound carbon dioxide. About 1500 cubic centimetres of carbon dioxide are released during baking, which are enough to aerate a dough made of 500 g flour.

The one-component baking powder uses only a carbon dioxide carrier directly in the form of potash or salts of hartshorn. The carbon dioxide is formed when the potash or salts of hartshorn react with acids which have been either added to the dough or formed during storage of the dough. One example is the formic acid in honey which, when combined with potash, serves to release the carbon dioxide.

The products of all reactions involving baking powder, potash or salts of hartshorn are mostly in gas form. One of them is the carbon dioxide which helps to aerate the dough, the other a small proportion of water, which, because of the high temperatures in the oven, immediately leaves the dough as steam. Baking powder does not influence the taste of any dough. Only salts of hartshorn leave behind a slight hint of ammonia or spirits of ammonia, which is fully intentional and in fact gives the characteristic taste to certain types of bakery products like Christmas cookies.

Although baking powder was developed originally as a means of better bread baking, no use is made of it nowadays for this purpose. Biological raising agents such as yeast and sour dough have made a total comeback in bread baking. But for ?fine pastries?, baking powder has become absolutely indispensable. For cakes and pastries it works in combination with the air beaten in while the dough is being stirred or kneaded.

Nowadays various baking enzymes are used as a back-up for baking powder. Baking enzymes are protein substances which are added to the baking power or the dough to improve and speed up aeration of the dough by carbon dioxide formation. Together with the baking powder, these enzymes make a decisive contribution to the quality of the pastries and not only have a considerable influence on aeration and volume and but are also responsible for the brown colouring and the characteristic taste.

Baking powder together with baking enzymes have made themselves absolutely indispensable in all kinds of ready-made flours for fine pastries and also for basic and ready mixes.

With all this information in your heads, it is time to put some of it into practice. If you try out the cake recipe given below you will see what effects baking powder has and also how good the cake itself tastes.

Layer cake

Ingredients: 1 cup whipping cream, 5 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 2 cups of flour, 1 sachet baking powder, 1 sachet vanilla sugar, 100 g grated nuts or almonds

stir cream, eggs and sugar thoroughly with a hand-stirrer

add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly together

spread out over a greased baking tin and bake at around 200 C for 45 min

depending on your personal taste, you can cover the cake with various fruits or bake it as a marble cake (divide the dough into two halves and mix cocoa into one of them)

We wish you lots of fun with baking, and enjoy the result!

Old Fashioned Cookies

* 1-1/2 cup sugar
* 1 cup shortening
* 2 egg whites
* 1 tsp. salt
* 2 Tbsp. baking ammonia dissolved in
* 1 cup milk
* 1 tsp. Lemon oil
* 5-6 cups flour

Mix until dough can easily be handled. Roll out quite thick, then cut with desired cutters. Bake at 350F for 10-12 minutes. Don"t let the cookies get brown. Frost and decorate.

Careful when you open the oven door, there is a strong odor. This recipe, which is over 50 years old, was submitted by Ruth Hanson.

Shopping Lis

[S_Wirth]

Lemon Meringue: Directions & Techniques

Submitted by: jej
Last Updated: 5/11/2008

Lemon Meringue Pie

Please let me preface this posting with the statement that "I love to make pie -- just about any kind of pie."

This posting does not include a recipe, but rather techniques and suggestions for making the pie shell, then putting a lemon meringue pie together.

Several members have posted recipes for Lemon Meringue Pies, should you need one. The ideas included here can be used in making most meringue pies and, of course, pastry crusts in general. May I also suggest my favorite crust, a healthful and quickly-made pie crust that does not require solid shortening, but rather oil -- I use canola. The recipe is posted amongst my recipes.

About a week into March of 2003, a culinary school student requested answers to some questions about making Lemon Meringue Pie. Several Baking Circle members asked me to post my response here with my recipes. My answers follow the student's letter.

NC78 wrote:
I am going to be making a lemon meringue pie for my mid-term a week from Wednesday, and I need someone to answer a few questions I have about this!

(1.) Pie crust - made with Crisco - after I have my pie crust chilled, How thin should it be rolled out?

Part2: How do you go about getting the crusts into the pie tins - without it breaking or cracking? (we use those little throw away pie tins)

(2.) Is there a good way in telling when the pie shells are done?

(3.) Meringue - when are you supposed to put it on the pie - right when it comes out of the oven or should it cool a little first?

---
My responses:

NC78... I "slept on your questions" last night. Here are some answers.

(1) The rolling out of the crust: In general, roll your crust so that it is a circle about 2" larger than your pan. I hold my pan over the rolled circle and 'eye-ball' it, judging if I think I have enough width to extend up the sides and then over the edge far enough to fold a tiny bit under (for a nicely finished edge). The circle should probably be on the large size, rather than smallish, because you want 'ease' or 'slack' in your crust, rather than to have to risk stretching it to make it fit the pan. The folded part which sits on the edge of the pie pan needs to extend over the edge just a wee bit because, when it is fluted, it takes up a little extra dough for the 'fluting folds.' It depends on the pan. Pie pans vary, and the foil pans can vary, too, so eye-balling your circle of dough and comparing it with the width and height of the pan is an important step to do.

I advise thinking first about doing this part carefully, without worrying about the thickness yet, as the circle must be rolled to a large-enough size to easily cover your pan and make your edging.

Now, once it is rolled out in a circle to cover your pan, etc., check for thickness. A very typical thickness advised for crust is 1/8-inch. You do not want it any thicker than that, I would say. If you put your hand down on the crust, you can also check it for an "even" thickness. Once the circle is getting near to the right width, I am checking for even thickness diligently.

Part 2 of question (1) is a good question: How does one get the crust into the pan without breaking and cracking? People have different ways of moving the crust into the pie plate. Years ago, when I made Crisco crusts, I held my rolling pin over one edge, or maybe I laid it very lightly right onto the crust, and then moved (rolled) the pin slowly and carefully so that the crust was rolled onto the pin, wrapped loosely around it. It was really easy, as I remember, and I was never 'fussed' by the procedure, nor did I have the breaking or cracking of which you speak. The nice thing about having the crust on the rolling pin was that I could start 'laying' the crust over and into the pan with fair precision; with a bit of practice, I learned where to start 'laying down the edge' of the crust so that it would be well centered. I also knew to lay it down a little 'slack' so that there was sufficient crust that it would not be stretched, but could be 'eased' down into the pan. Then, too, those little 'gathers' or 'seemingly excess crust' at the walls of the pie plate could be eased together, and made smooth with no real folds.

NOTE: I like to sprinkle a very little bit of flour in the bottom of the pie plate before putting the bottom crust in; I 'mist' this in with my fingers so it is a very delicate dusting.
The purpose is that, if the crust didn't get centered, the crust is more easily moved.

To avoid the breaking or cracking, the moisture content of the crust must be correct. If it is too dry, there is almost no way I can suggest to avoid it. Maybe someone else knows a way, but I don't. The typical test is to push the dough together in a ball, and then see if it stays there. If it won't ball, but it falls apart instead, more moisture is needed.

One of my favorite ways of adding the moisture without over-working the dough, which toughens it, is to sprinkle 1/4 of the moisture over 1/4 of the flour/shortening mixture, then quickly toss it with a fork (or however you do your mixing); then 'do' the next quarter of the dough, sprinkling 1/4 of the ice water over it, and toss it to mix. Repeat this 'til all four quarters are moistened. This is all done rather rapidly, and with this divvying up of ice water in the flour mixture, the moisture is distributed pretty evenly throughout the dough. I'm sure that helped my dough to 'come together' more surely than if I'd just added the water all at once. Now is the time to check for correct moisture: push the mixture together into a ball. If it falls apart, add more moisture. I added ice water about 1 teaspoon at a time, and I 'divvied' again, not to mix a lot, but mostly adding it to the seemingly dry areas.

When the dough stays in a ball, wrap it snugly in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for the recommended half hour or so before rolling; if the moisture content and distribution are correct, that will help the dough to 'come together.' Be aware, however, that if there is insufficient moisture, cracks and breaking should be expected. It will not only be a problem when rolling out the crust and transferring it into the pan, but it will also interfere with folding the edges under, making a pretty fluted edge, etc.

Now, I have another favorite step for crust (and cookie) doughs that have to be rolled out. Flatten each round separately into a disc that is perhaps 4-5 inches in diameter, and about 3/4-inch or so thick, before it is refrigerated; then, when ready to roll, the rolling pin isn't starting on top of a beach ball! Well, not a beach ball, of course, but dough can come out of the 'fridge pretty firm, so why not make it easier on yourself?

Some pie bakers like to roll pie crust out on a floured board, which is fine. I did that years ago, but today I find my dough doesn't get as dry if I roll it between two sheets of plastic wrap. A friend was economy-minded and rolled hers between the waxed paper from cereal boxes. I prefer the fluidity and flexibility of the plastic wrap. I also used to put two sheets of plastic together so it would be wider than the 12-inch width, thus it was wide enough to accommodate large dough circles. Today I have the convenience of buying larger widths of plastic, such as 14-, 15-, 18-inch, etc. That is very convenient, and so is the clean-up! Not even a messy rolling pin. J

Now, getting crusts into those light-weight foil pans can be a trial; I find they often want to dance around or skitter away. I now usually set such a pan next to my flour jar to help it stay put. Of course, the jar needs to be moved away to have free space around the pan for getting the rest of the crust situated successfully in the pan. I've thought about putting a piece masking tape, folded sticky side out, on the bottom of the pan to help it to stay in one place on the counter (while the crust is going into the pan), but I haven't yet done it.

(2) How do you tell when the crust is done? Usually recipes ask for the crust to be baked for a specified number of minutes, 10-12 minutes, or 12-15 minutes, for example. Look for a pale golden brown color. Also, the crust will take on a different appearance when baked, with an uneven surface appearance, due to its baking with a flaky texture. Some books -- and cooks-- will suggest putting a 'liner' in the crust, then filling it with dried beans, rice, or beads. The purpose of this is so the crust can neither puff up nor shrink unduly. I have not liked the results of my experiences with this procedure. I've read recently that lining the shell with foil prevents the crust from breathing, and impairs its quality when baked. I used foil, and my crusts were, indeed, cardboard-y and not well cooked. Suggested liners for solving this problem are large coffee urn liners (said to be easiest) or parchment paper cut to fit the pie pan (the sides of which need to be folded to fit smoothly); I have not used either of these suggestions. I now simply use a fork to make punctures into the bottom and sides of the crust, and if the holes re-seal and puff a little, I poke them again to let the air out. It takes a bit of watching, but these crusts need watching anyway.

The last pie shell I baked seemed a little dark, but it was so flaky, tender and well-cooked that I decided slightly darker is greatly preferable to under-cooked.

I like to have a foil ring ready, even though I may never use it when just baking a bottom crust. IF, however, the edges begin browning before the rest of the pie shell takes on color, the ring of foil will cover the edges to prevent them from becoming overly darker.

To make a foil ring: Cut out a circle of foil about a good inch greater in diameter than that of the pie plate. Then, cut out the center of the circle. I like to have about 1-1/2 inches left to cover the top, which means that the ring should be about 2-1/2 inches wide. This is because the circle should be placed on the counter and the outer edge turned up by about 1/2 inch all the way around, totaling an inch used in this step. I wash the foil ring and use it over and over several times. Heavy-duty foil will last even longer than regular weight foil. Baking a pie shell for a one-crust pie is about the only time I don't use the foil ring.

To protect the bottom crust from 'sogginess': I have an authoritative source with information and advice relating to this potential problem. None other than Rose Levy Beranbaum states: "The most effective way to moisture-proof a baked bottom crust is to brush it with a thin coating of egg white. (The yolk would toughen the dough.) The residual heat of the baked crust causes the egg white to dry to a crisp finish. Allow the baked pastry shell to cool on a rack for about 3 minutes before brushing it with lightly beaten egg white so that it isn't too hot, which would cause the egg white layer to flake off. If the baked pastry shell is no longer hot enough to set the egg white, return it to the oven for 2 to 3 minutes or until the egg white layer is dry and opaque. Half an egg white (1 tablespoon) will be enough to moisture-proof a 9-inch pie shell." I have done this frequently with both homemade pastry shells and purchased crumb crusts. The latter are brushed lightly and baked for about 5 minutes at 375ýF.

(3.) Meringue - when are you supposed to put it on the pie - right when it comes out of the oven or should it cool a little first?

I did not understand this question (when asked by the student). I attempted to answer as follows:

Using a Crisco crust, you will have made the crust, chilled for that 30 minutes or so, rolled it out and baked it. (I have an oil-based crust in my recipes that I use all the time now; you may wish to try it.) The prepared crust will (or won't be) moisture-proofed. It will be cooled and ready when the custard is made.

The custard preparation is next, however.

All of the meringue ingredients should be ready to go immediately when the custard is finished. The egg whites are optimum if at room temperature, so place them in the bowl to be used for the meringue as soon as they've been separated. (When I do this, I cover the bowl with plastic or foil so the whites will not dry out.)

Now prepare the custard.

As soon as the custard is made, while it is still piping hot, turn it into the prepared pie shell. Cover it with plastic to keep it hot. Preheat the oven now. The meringue should be made immediately and spread on the still hot custard (don't forget in your haste to remove the plastic first!! :))). As soon as the meringue has been double-checked for touching ALL of the edges of the crust, place the pie in the oven; bake the meringue.

Emeril's Method: While the pie is baking, make the meringue. In a large, clean bowl using clean beaters, beat the remaining 4 egg whites with the cream of tartar and a pinch of salt with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Beating constantly, slowly add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar until glossy, stiff peaks form, being careful not to over beat, as this will make it difficult to spread. Using a rubber spatula, spread the meringue evenly over the pie filling, smoothing out to the pastry edges so the meringue won't draw up or weep during baking. With a dull knife make decorative peaks in the meringue. Bake until the meringue is golden, 14 to 15 minutes.

NOTE: Moriah has made a study of meringues, very worthwhile checking out.

Many, many recipe books say to cool the custard first, including my family recipe, but spreading the meringue completely over the hot custard REALLY WORKS. It is not that the old procedure will never work (especially if the pie is quickly devoured!!), but there is sound reasoning behind this procedure.

Happy Baking and good luck with a memorable Lemon Meringue Pie! --jej

[S_Wirth]

CREAM PUFFS, plus their FILLINGS & ICINGS

Submitted by: jej
Last Updated: 7/30/2006

From Luigi Carnacina's Italian Cookbook, "Great Italian Cooking." See the "Cream Puff Tree" recipe for more info on the source.

I. The DOUGH and CREAM PUFFS
A) Cream Puff Dough
B) Custard Cream Puffs
C) Chocolate Cream Puffs
D) Mocha Cream Puffs
E) Whipped-Cream Filled Cream Puffs
F) Zabaglione Cream Puffs

II. The FILLINGS and ICINGS
A) Pastry Cream
B) Cold Zabaglione
C) Chocolate Icing
D) Fondant Icing

III. The CAKE and GARNISHES for CROQUEMBOUCHE
A) Genoise Base for Petits Fours
B) Glaceed Strawberries

I. The DOUGH and CREAM PUFFS

A) CREAM PUFF DOUGH (pasta per choux fine)
1 cup cold water
1/2 cup butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
optional: 1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
4 eggs

Place the water, butter, salt, and optional sugar in a heavy saucepan and bring to a rapid boil over high heat. When the butter has melted remove the pan from the fire and dump in the flour, all at once. Stir briskly with a wooden spoon until the flour has been thoroughly incorporated and return the pan to the stove, reducing the heat to very low, and continue stirring until the mixture forms a ball and leaves the sides and bottom of the pan.

Remove the pan from the stove, let it cool for 5 minutes, and then add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating vigorously after each addition (an electric mixer is a help here). After the last egg has been added, beat the mixture until it becomes smooth and glossy. When this has been accomplished, the dough is now ready for a variety of uses: cream puffs, ?clairs, etc.

SHAPING AND BAKING:

The dough may be placed in a large pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip, or dropped by spoonful onto a lightly greased baking sheet. The dough expands to twice its size when baked, so this should be your guide when spacing the puffs on the baking sheet.

Place in a 425-degree oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 300 degrees and bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes. They should be well puffed by now and no traces of moisture should be left on the surfaces. One may make a test at this point by cutting one open and seeing if the inside is dryish. It will not be totally dry, however.

Remove the puffs from the oven, cut a slit in the side of each, and allow them to cool thoroughly on a cake rack. Do not cover them while the least bit warm, as this will make them soggy. Also, do not fill until just before serving. Makes 12 large puffs or 24 small ones.

NOTE: Care should be taken that the oven is not too hot, for then the dough will rise too rapidly and subsequently collapse. If the puffs are large, split them open, scrape out any moist parts clinging to the insides, and dry them in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes. Never fill a hot puff with a cold mixture and vice versa. Baked puffs may also be frozen, unfilled.

B) CUSTARD CREAM PUFFS (choux alla crema vanigliata) 24 small or 12 medium puffs.

1 recipe Cream Puff Dough flavored with 1 T. orange flower water
1 recipe Pastry Cream
3 T. unblanched almonds, sliced paper thin (See Note A below)
3 T. vanilla confectioners? sugar (See Note B below)

Prepare the dough as indicated, adding the orange flower water just before the flour is dumped in.

Lightly butter a large baking sheet, place the dough in a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip (or just use the nozzle of the bag) and pipe on 12 medium balls of dough or 24 small ones. Bake as directed.

Before cooling, pierce the bottoms with the tip of a small sharp knife. When cool, place the pastry cream in a pastry bag fitted with a medium plain tip, and fill each puff with the cream.

Mix the almonds and sugar together and dust the surface of each puff with the mixture.

Note A:

SHREDDED, SLIVERED, OR SLICED ALMONDS (Mandorle sfilettate)

1/2 pound freshly blanched almonds
1 quart boiling lightly salted water

Place the freshly blanched almonds in the boiling water and cook them for 10 minutes.
Remove pan from stove and leave the almonds in it until the water is cool. Take them out, a few at a time, and with a very sharp paring knife cut them in thin slices, lengthwise slivers, or then shreds. Place these in a single layer in a baking pan and dry them out in a 200-degree oven for 1 hour, turning from time to time with a spatula. They should not brown. If they do, lower the oven to 150. When dry, spread them out on paper towels to cool, and when totally cool store in tightly covered jars, which may be kept in the refrigerator if the weather is warm. Makes about 2 cups.

Note B: VANILLA SUGAR (Zucchero vanigliato)

Vanilla sugar provides a more concentrated and fresher vanilla flavor in desserts than vanilla extract. It keeps for a long time, in fact, the longer the better. The vanilla beans will have to be replaced after about 6 months.

2 pounds sugar
2 vanilla beans, split and cut in 1-inch lengths

Mix sugar and vanilla beans together. Pour into a jar with a tight-fitting cover and let stand for 3 days before using. As sugar is used, replace it with fresh sugar, mixing it with the sugar remaining in the jar. Store in a dry place.

Confectioners? Vanilla Sugar: Use sifted confectioners? sugar.

Superfine Vanilla Sugar. Use superfine sugar.

C) CHOCOLATE CREAM PUFFS (choux alla crema al chioccolato) (24 or 12, as above)

1 recipe Cream Puff Dough
1 recipe Pastry Cream, flavored with 2 squares melted bitter chocolate
1/2 cup Chocolate Fondant Icing (See Fondant Icing)

Prepare and bake puffs as indicated.
When filled, glaze the top of each puff with a little of the fondant icing.

D) MOCHA CREAM PUFFS (24 or 12, as above)

1 recipe Cream Puff Dough
1 recipe Pastry Cream
2 T. powdered instant coffee (or 1/4 cup triple-strength brewed coffee), 1 T. cocoa, and 2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup Fondant Icing

Prepare and bake puffs as indicated.
When filled, glaze the top of each puff with a little of the Fondant Icing.

E) WHIPPED-CREAM-FILLED CREAM PUFFS

1 recipe Cream Puff Dough
2 cups heavy cream
6 T. vanilla superfine sugar (See Custard Cream Puffs, Note B.) OR 6 T. superfine sugar and 2 tsp. vanilla extract
Confectioners? sugar, sifted

Prepare and bake puffs as indicated.
When cool, fill with the following: Whip the cream in well-chilled bowl until it is thick. Beat in the vanilla-flavored sugar OR the superfine sugar and vanilla extract.
Fill as indicated in Cream Puff Dough recipe, and dust the top of each puff with the confectioners? sugar.

F) ZABAGLIONE CREAM PUFFS (Choux allo zabaione) (24 or 12, as above)

Recipe Cream Puff Dough
1 recipe Cold Zabaglione
1/2 recipe Fondant Icing

Prepare and fill as indicated in Cream Puff Dough recipe.
When filled, glaze the top of each puff with the white fondant.

II. The FILLINGS and ICINGS

A) PASTRY CREAM

3/4 cup superfine sugar
6 or 7 egg yolks
1/3 cup sifted flour
Pinch salt
2-inch piece vanilla bean OR 1-1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 cups milk, scalded

Beat the sugar with the yolks until pale and fluffy. Slowly add the flour and then the salt.
Scald the milk with the vanilla bean, and stir into the egg mixture. Pour into a heavy saucepan.

Place saucepan over low heat, and stir constantly with a wire whisk until thick and lumpy. Remove from stove, discard vanilla bean, and whip vigorously with whisk (do NOT use a rotary or electric beater, as it will ?break down? the flour and thin the mixture) until smooth.

Return to stove and stir constantly with whisk, scraping bottom often to prevent scorching, until it begins to bubble slowly. Turn down heat as low as possible, and continue beating and stirring for 3 more minutes.

Remove from stove (beat in vanilla extract at this point, if vanilla bean was not used) and pour into a bowl. Cover with plastic self-adhesive (this prevents a crust from forming). Chill in refrigerator until cold and stiff.

B) COLD ZABAGLIONE (Zabaione ghiacciato al Marsala) (Serves 8)

Since regular Zagalione will not stand without separating, this is an excellent recipe for those who wish for the taste and texture of Zabaglione but desire a cold dessert. It makes an excellent filling for small cream puffs or ?clairs, and might even be used to fill a cake.

7 egg yolks
3/4 cup superfine sugar
1 cup sweet Marsala wine
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
Grated peel of 1/2 lemon (no white part)
Pinch cinnamon
1 cup heavy cream, whipped

Place the first 3 ingredients in the top of a double boiler (it should be a round-bottomed container, but if non is available, use a heat-proof bowl that will fit into the top of a pot) and place over hot (not boiling) water. The bottom of the container holding the eggs should never touch the water. Beat with a wire whisk, scraping the sides and bottom, constantly until the mixture begins to foam up.

Gradually add the Marsala in a steady trickle. Continue beating until the mixture forms very soft mounds (as opposed to soft peaks in a meringue). Remove it immediately from the stove and continue beating until cool. Here an electric beater may be used, although a whisk must be used in the basic preparation, since it is far more efficient in scraping the sides and bottom of the pan, and incorporates much more air into the preparation.

When cooled to room temperature, add the vanilla, lemon peel, and cinnamon. Place the bowl in a larger bowl filed with cracked ice, and continue beating until the mixture is chilled through. Beat the cream in a chilled bowl until stiff and fold it into the ice-cold Zabaglione. Pour into tall glasses (or into a glass serving bowl) and chill until ready to serve.

C) CHOCOLATE ICING (Ghiaccia al cioccolato)

4 squares bitter chocolate, grated
1/3 cup heavy cream
4 cups (more or less) sifted confectioners? sugar
Pinch salt
1-1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

Place the grated chocolate and cream in a small bowl. Place over boiling water until chocolate has melted. Mix well until blended.

Place 3 cups of the sugar and the pinch salt in a large bowl and gradually add the melted chocolate. Beat until blended. If too thin to spread, add more sugar; if too thick, add warm cream by the teaspoonful until desired consistency is reached. Beat in vanilla.

Spread at once with a spatula dipped from time to time in hot water.
Makes enough to fill and ice 2 8-inch layers.

D) FONDANT ICING (Ghiaccia al fondante)

2 cups superfine sugar
2/3 cup warm water
Pinch cream of tartar (or 1 T. white corn syrup)

1) Mix all ingredients together and stir for at least 10 minutes until the sugar dissolves (or place in blender and whirl at high speed for 2 minutes). This MUST be done previous to cooking, as the syrup must never be stirred once it is placed on the stove?if it is stirred at that point, the sugar will crystallize and the fondant will be impossible to make.

2) When the sugar is dissolved, place it in a small, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate heat. When it comes to a boil, cover the pan to allow the steam to wash down any sugar crystals clinging to its sides. Remove cover after 2 minutes and continue cooking until syrup reaches the soft ball stage (238 F. on the candy thermometer).

3) Pour it out immediately onto a lightly oiled marble slab or a large platter. Let it cool until it is cool to the touch and does not stick to the fingers. Then take a spatula and knead the paste over onto itself until it turns opaque white (this takes about 3 minutes). Gather the mass into your hands and knead it until it becomes white and creamy (it must be done in the hands as body heat is vital here).

4) Shape it into a roll or ball and place it in a jar with a screw top. Cover tightly and allow it to ripen in the refrigerator for 2 days before using.

5) TO USE AS ICING, treat it as follows: take the amount needed and place it in a small, heavy enamel saucepan. Place the pan on an asbestos pad over medium heat and thin the fondant with a little boiling milk or water to the proportion of about 1 or 2 drops to 1/2 cup fondant. Remove from stove and stir until lukewarm. If still too thick, add a few more drops of hot liquid. Flavor and color as follows:

CHOCOLATE Fondant: 1 T. grated bitter chocolate added to fondant while melting; add no liquid.

COFFEE Fondant: Use strong coffee in place of milk or water in thinning fondant.

GREEN (Pistachio) Fondant: 2 drops green vegetable color and 1/2 tsp. almond extract.

PINK Fondant: 1 or 2 drops red vegetable color and 1/2 tsp. almond extract.

LEMON (Yellow) Fondant: 1 or 2 drops yellow food coloring and 1/2 tsp. lemon extract.

ORANGE (Fondant: 1/2 drop yellow food coloring and 1/2 drop red food coloring, plus 1/2 tsp. orange extract or 1 tsp. orange flower water.

The color choices are unlimited. Liqueurs of your choice may be used as flavoring. Do not, however, over-flavor or over-color. Deep blue might have a distressing effect, not because of its taste, but because of its psychological effects. The same applies to any color not pastel in shade. The amounts given above are for 1/2 cup fondant and 1 tsp. (or more) hot liquid.

WARNING: Do not overheat fondant or it will lose its gloss. Do not add cold liquid to the fondant or it might revert to clear sugar syrup.

III. The CAKE and GARNISHES for CROQUEMBOUCHE

A) GENOISE BASE for PETITS FOURS (Pasta genovese per biscotti e per petits fours)

This is the classic base. It is very delicate, and the butter lends it added richness.

8 eggs
1 cup superfine sugar
Pinch salt
1-1/2 cups triple-sifted cake flour
3/4 cup lukewarm Clarified Butter (See Note A, below)
1 tsp. vanilla (or other) extract

Put the eggs, sugar, and salt into a large, deep bowl (preferably of unlined copper), and place the bowl over hot (not boiling) water. Beat with a wire whisk until pale and lemon colored and greatly increased in volume. When the batter falls from the beater in a slowly dissolving ribbon, remove from heat. Continue beating until the mixture is cool.

Gradually stir in the flour (do not beat, but stir, blending it in well) and finally stir in the clarified butter gradually, a tablespoon at a time, mixing only until no trace remains. Flavor as desired.

Butter a baking pan of the size most suitable (See Note B, below), line it with wax paper, butter that, and dust with flour, tapping out the excess. Pour in batter and bake in a 350-degree oven for 35 minutes, or until cake tester comes out clean. Turn out onto a cake rack, carefully peel off paper, and use as desired.

NOTE A: CLARIFIED BUTTER (Burro chiarificato or epurato)

Clarified butter is butter reduced to pure fat, purified of all milky particles and sediment. It is frequently used for saut?ing foods, since the pure fat will not burn as quickly as butter that contains milk solids. It is also used in many delicate cakes and pastries and for greasing cake pans where the milk content of ordinary butter might make dough or batter stick.

Melt any given quantity of sweet butter in a heavy saucepan over very low heat (or in a low ?200 degree?oven) until white foam rises to the top. Skim off the foam and continue cooking until no more foam rises and all particles in the butter sink to the bottom of the pan. Be very careful not to allow the butter to color too much, especially when using for cakes or pastries, as it will acquire a nutty flavor. Pour off the clear, purified butter from the top into a container or remove it with a bulb-baster. The residue may be used as a final enrichment for sauces and soups. Both may be stored for as long as a week in the refrigerator or kept frozen for several weeks.

Clarified butter may be used as is, or with the addition of lemon juice, salt, and pepper, as a simple sauce for a wide variety of vegetables.

NOTE B: PAN SIZES:

A 9- by 12-inch baking tin is suggested for single layer petit fours.
A 10- by 14-inch pan is used for making petit fours in 2 layers.
For a thinner cake, a wider pan may be used.

(No further suggestions are given. I don?t know what kind of ?rise? this recipe produces, but I?d be inclined to do a ?trial run? first, using the size round baking pan needed for the height of ?cream puff tree? I wanted to make. I?d use two round pans, at least, or maybe consider dividing the ingredients by two, to make only a half recipe, still aware that I don?t know how high the cake will rise. Hope this helps.)

B) GLACEED STRAWBERRIES (Fragole caramellate)

3 dozen extra-large, perfect strawberries (wit long stems attached, if possible)
3 cups sugar
1 cup water
1 T. white corn syrup

Place the sugar, water, and corn syrup in a small, deep, heavy saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir until sugar is dissolved. Allow to cook until it almost reaches the caramel stage (290 degrees on candy thermometer), turn off the heat, and place the pan in a larger pan filled with boiling water. (This arrests the cooking process, yet keeps the syrup to and liquid.)

Dip the berries, holding them by their stems. Serve as soon as coating is cool.

Note: Ordinary strawberries, hulled, may be dipped into the syrup with tongs.