Gravy — the real Mother (and Father) sauce

Clas­si­cal­ly trained chefs, please stop read­ing this col­umn now. OK, you’ve been warned. In clas­sic French cook­ing there are five moth­er sauces, as first set forth by Marie-Antoine Carême and lat­er revised by Auguste Escoffi­er: Béchamel, Velouté, Espag­nol, Toma­to and Hol­landaise. These are called moth­er sauces because they’re the start­ing point for hun­dreds of sauces. James…

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