Gravy — the real Mother (and Father) sauce

Clas­si­cal­ly trained chefs, please stop read­ing this col­umn now. OK, you’ve been warned. In clas­sic French cook­ing there are five moth­er sauces, as first set forth by Marie-Antoine Carême and lat­er revised by Auguste Escoffi­er: Béchamel, Velouté, Espag­nol, Toma­to and Hol­landaise. These are called moth­er sauces because they’re the start­ing point for hun­dreds of sauces. James…

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Published:May 24, 2017 View Post

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Delicious Liasons — the Science and Art of Thickening

Lia­son. The very word con­jures up images of entan­gle­ments, and well it should, since it comes from the French verb lier, to bind. In cook­ing, a lia­son is some­thing added to a liq­uid, like a sauce or a soup, to bind or thick­en it. There are two basic kinds of liasons–starches, like flour, and pro­teins, like egg. Both…

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Published:July 3, 2016 View Post

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