Side Dish -- Charro Beans (spicy Tex-Mex Pinto Beans)
Submitted by dvdlee on August 27, 2004 at 10:13 am

DESCRIPTION
Side Dish -- Charro Beans (spicy Tex-Mex Pinto Beans)

SUMMARY
Yield 0 File under Family / Ethnic / Regional

INSTRUCTIONS
(This is a long entry since I have disgressed into history, the main types of Texas Pinto Beans, preparing the beans and specific notes on some ingredients. Just skip down to see the actual recipe!!)

The history of a culture is preserved in its food. And you have to investigate and incorporate foods historical background in order to re-create an authentic dish.

Pinto Beans are intertwined with Texas history. How they were prepared reflects the different stages in Texas economic and cultural history.

There are three main divisions in Texas-style pinto beans: Cowboy Beans, Borracho Beans(Drunken Beans), and Charro Beans. The lines between types is rather blurred and, of course, there are thousands (if not hundreds of thousands) recipes, variations, etc.

All of these recipes depend on long, slow cooking over several hours to develop the flavor of the beans. They were also a 'convenience' food, since once a batch of beans was made, it would be served for several meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner sometimes!). With cornbread they provided a complete source of protein with many added nutrients.

COWBOY BEANS were the original pinto beans prepared by the chuck wagon cooks for the workers as they herded cattle. They were very simply prepared with salt pork. This was the only meat that was commonly available all of the time, as cattle were usually not killed for consumption by the cowboys. Salt pork would keep without spoiling (from the salt-curing), was relatively inexpensive. Other ingredients were usually onions, salt, pepper, and maybe a dried chili pepper or two or other dried herb (cumin seed, etc.). No fresh vegetable (tomato, fresh chili pods, cilantro, etc.) would normally be available or used in plain cowboy beans.

BORRACHO BEANS (Drunken Beans) were the next version -- which began to show the greater influence of Mexican cooking and also the availability of a wider range of supply from villages or farms. The primary distintion is that Borracho beans are made with some amount of beer. Also fresh chili pods may appear, as well as garlic, and a greater range of spices and herbs (coriender seed, etc.).

CHARRO BEANS show the most influence of Mexican cooking. Fresh tomatoes, a variety of fresh chili pods, garlic, cilantro, stock, and especially espazote (a Southwest herb) are all usually found added to the basic salt pork/bean blend. Charro Beans were usually prepared as part of a settled ranch or settlement -- and frequently by women cooks.

Of course, all three 'styles' of beans co-existed depending on the supplies available and the circumstances of the moment.

Beans have been traditionally soaked overnight for several reasons: it helped speed up the cooking time and also helped reduce intestinal gas.

Most digestive gas is caused by compounds that are not broken down in the stomach, but pass on to the intestines basicly intact. This means that they are not completely digested.

All beans contain a group of compounds (carbs) called oligosaccharides. (The amount varys from one type of bean to another.) If you eat beans frequently the body adjusts and produces much less digestive gases. Soaking the beans causes the oligosacchardes to break down somewhat, so less gas will be produced. Some herbs are also supposed to help in the digestion of beans (especialy espazote). Commercial enzymes are available (Bean-o), but should not be used by people who are allergic to penicillin. The fresher the bean is, the lower the amount of oligosacchardes so always try to use the freshest and best-looking beans you can find.

Different soaking techniques reduce the amount of oligosacchardes by different amounts. There are four different methods with different results.

Just Start Cooking
Be prepared for the consequences! No reduction in oligosacchardes.

Overnight Soak
Rinse, clean and soak beans overnight in 8 or so times their volume of water. Drain soaking water before beginning to cook the beans the next day. The least effective method with the smallest reduction in oligosacchardes.

Hot Quick Soak
Rinse, clean and put beans in a large pot with 8 or so times their volume of cold water. On high heat bring beans to a full boil. Boil for 2-3 minutes (no longer). Remove from the heat, cover the pot and let soak for however much time you have (even 30 minutes is helpful). Drain the water, then begin your recipe. Second most effective method.

Hot Overnight Soak
The most effective and reduces the amount of oligosacchardes at least 70+%. Prepare exactly as for the Hot Quick Soak method above, but let soak overnight (8-10 hours). If your kitchen is very hot, or you want to soak the beans longer than 10 hours, put them in the fridge.

Aside from fresh beans, no one ingredient is more important than your salt pork. You should find salt pork that is very lean (2 parts lean to 1 part fat is good), and that also has rind or skin on one side of your pork. (There is a lot of flavor in the skin.)

Bacon is not a substitute, as it has been smoked in addition to salted and will give a different taste. (But many recipes do mix the two.)

Fatback is just pork fat, or it has very little lean meat and should not be used.

This is a critical herb to Charro beans. You can really taste when its missing. You should use fresh (available in ethnic markets)--a small 'bunch' of 5 stalks or so. It's usually easier to order this from from Pensey's or other top-quality spice/herb house.

Most lower-priced dried espazote (usually sold in cello packages) in the ethnic grocery is dry and tasteless.

1 lb. dried pinto beans
1 lb. lean salt pork w/rind
1-2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups chopped onion (rough chop)
1/2 cup chopped green pepper
1/2 cup chopped fresh mild chili peppers, seeded (any mixture of jalapenos, hatch, anaheim, roasted & peeled poblano, etc.)
1 chopped fresh serrano pepper
Optional (add only if you want spicy beans): 1 or 2 canned chipolte pepper(s) with a dab of adobo sauce or 1 dried ancho or pasilla pepper (seeds removed)
4 cloves garlic (pressed); more if minced
1 teaspoon paprika (or 3/4 regular & 1/4 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika)
2 teaspoons dried espazota (from Pensey's)
1 & 1/2 teaspoons adobo powder (ethic or Pensey's spice blend)
1 & 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
3/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon hot chili powder
1 quart chicken broth
1 quart water (more if needed)
2 large fresh tomatoes (peeled & rough chopped with juices) OR 1 16 oz can of whole tomatoes, rough chopped)
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 cup (approx.) chopped cilantro

Prepare the beans using the Hot Soak or Overnight Hot Soak Method.

Cut away the rind from the salt pork so you have one large piece, if possible.

Dice the remaining salt pork by hand into small cubes. (This is easier if you keep it cold.) There should be 2 parts lean to 1 part fat.

Put in a large, heavy bottomed bean pot the oil, salt pork and rind. Cook over medium heat until the salt pork fat begins to render out and the edges of the fatty pieces turn clear.

Add onions, green pepper and all of the fresh chilis. Cook until onions are almost transparent, but still have some crunch. Add the garlic and cook an additional minute.

Add beans, stock, water, and all herbs and spices (EXCEPT salt and the tomatoes). Bring to a boil and the reduce to a simmer uncovered.

After 1 & 1/2 to 2 hours add the tomatoes, salt and taste the broth and adjust seasonings as needed or to your taste. This should be a fairly 'soupy' mixture -- if fact you can eat this as a type of bean soup!

Continue to simmer and slowly cook another 1 & 1/2 to 2 hours, or longer if needed. Beans should be tender and not have any resistence when tasted. Remove salt pork rind, bay leaf and any large pieces of dried pepper. Add cilantro just before serving. Serve beans with some of the broth. Have available hot sauce and fresh chopped green onion for people to add if they choose.

While the beans are ready to eat right away, they will taste even better if held and served the next day.